One Year Later

It turns out that today, exactly one year ago, Chris Deck and I left his home in Buffalo, NY at 6am to make the Early Bird Special at Amy's Place diner. Promptly after finishing breakfast, we began out nine-hour trek to Slade, KY to climb in the Red River Gorge.

The following day I flailed up Losen Up (10b) at Global Village, pitched off from the anchor-clipping hold and took my first whip, probably totaling a mere ten feet. Chris did likewise shortly after. After some thought, I made a gumby decision and left one Omega Pacific quick-draw on the chains, and a bail-biner on the bolt below. I've never gotten them back, and I have never heard of anyone taking them (though I know they are both gone).

Filled with doubt about everything I planned on doing - dirt-bagging, road tripping - I hit a wall. I never felt that pang of fear before. The sensations of falling seem to overflow into all my thoughts of the pavement before me. Do I really want to keep traveling into other states, across the country? Holy fuck, what am I thinking. After some deliberation I decided to keep going at it.

A few days later I met Eric Chastang and Old Man Rob. They put me on Air Ride Equipte (11a), and I whipped a little - but mostly took on the rope, afraid to push myself. That's the same day I also met Ben Page and Dana Whistler. The following day I was at shady grove. That day I met Sarah Rhomberg, Melissa, Margret, Phil Purney, Sarah Purcell, Warren Hulsey. Talk about the right crew to know. They taught me everything I needed to know. That day at Shady Grove was when I became comfortable with falling. Now it barely phases me. I've progressed to sending a few 12a's, and it feels fantastic to push my limits.

I've come a long way in the last year. I'd like to think that since then I've left most of my gumby-ways in a ditch somewhere in the Gorge. I still have those moments where hours later I want to palm my face. But I've got some cool friends who'll laugh at it with me.

I met Al last year as well. Despite our (mostly mine) foolishness, we're still climbing together, and crushing. Thanks to Al, there are certain songs I can no longer listen to because they've been so over played in my car. Somewhere along the line I met 'Bama Joe and a whole slue of other locals - and people just passing through.

I spent my first season bouldering outdoors this past winter, and prior to then, I despised bouldering. Now I love it, all thanks to Bishop and Vegas. And I'll probably spend another season pebble wrestling.

My trad rack as doubled in size. I've taken a whip on my own gear and it felt like that first one I took a year ago.  I've never felt like I had to project a 5.9 hand-crack, but here I am, unable to send Africa at Tower Rock. Maybe next week.

Fact is kids, I'm an addict. And If I could do it all again, I'd just do it twice as slow to appreciate it twice as much a year later.